The short version
You’ll have a lawn that’s back to a sensible height, with edges you can see, corners that aren’t swallowing the path, and a schedule you can rely on when wet spells hit.
I’ll confirm the lawn area from your photos or a quick look, then I’ll give you a fixed price for the agreed work before I start. You’ll get a cut lawn, clean edges, and the strimmed bits brought back under control, without the price jumping because it was rougher than expected. Next is a quick check of the photos and timing, then I’ll book you in.
I start by agreeing what counts as lawn, what needs strimming, and what happens with the cuttings. On the first visit I knock the height back safely, re-cut the edges if they’ve disappeared, and tidy the borders and corners so the next cut is a normal mow, not a rescue job.
About me
I’m Gareth Whitfield, Grounds maintenance. I run Red Brick Grounds as a one-person service, so the person you speak to is the person who turns up and does the work. Most of my jobs are lawns that have got away over a season, or gardens that need to look right for a move-in date.
I price lawn work by area and condition, then I stick to the agreed scope. Before I start, I’ll call out the common time-sinks like buried edging, long wet grass, dog mess, and hidden rubble. If something changes the job, I’ll stop and ask before I do it, so you stay in control of the spend.
Selected work
A few recent lawn tidy-up and mowing jobs, showing the kind of “back under control” resets and regular rounds I do.
Portfolio
Tenancy changeover lawn reset. Overgrown back lawn and buried edges. I knocked the height down in two passes, re-cut the edge line, and strimmed along fences and around the washing line so it photographed well for viewings.
Wet-season regular mowing round. A small lawn that surges after rain. I set a regular cut height, edged each visit, and kept the corners and path line trimmed so it stayed tidy between cuts.
Rough lawn knock-back cut. Long, uneven grass with a scalped patch and a few bumps. I knocked it back, levelled and re-seated the worst corner patch, then left it ready for a normal mowing routine.
“Turned up when he said, priced it straight, and the lawn looked sorted.”
Landlord, a small terrace rental
The service schedule
I can do this as a one-off tidy-up, or as a regular mowing and edging round. If you message me between visits, you’ll get a reply the same day with the next slot I can offer.
1. Quick check-in Once, at start You send photos and a rough idea of access, or I pop by for a short look if the photos don’t show the edges and corners. I confirm what I’m counting as lawn, what needs strimming, and what you want done with the cuttings. 2. Tidy-up visit First visit I cut and edge the front, strim and tidy the back, and knock back any overgrown sections in safe stages so I’m not scalping the lawn. If there’s a corner patch that’s been wrecked, I can scalp and re-level it as part of the reset where it’s agreed. 3. Regular round Weekly/fortnightly I mow to the agreed height, edge the visible lines, and strim around walls, fences, and obstacles. If it’s been very wet and the ground is soft, I’ll adjust the cut so it still looks tidy without tearing the surface up. 4. Seasonal support As needed When you want to improve the lawn rather than just keep it short, I can scarify for thatch removal and do hollow-tine aeration. If you’re overseeding, I’ll handle the groundwork and prep so the seed has a clean, open surface to land on.
Grass cut to agreed height
Every mowing visit. On the first tidy-up I’ll knock it back in stages if it’s long, so the lawn recovers instead of getting scalped.
EDGES CUT AND DEFINED
Every visit where edging is part of your round. If the edge line is buried, I’ll re-cut it on the tidy-up visit so it stays easy to keep sharp.
STRIMMING AROUND OBSTACLES
Every mowing visit. I strim along walls, fences, posts, steps, and anything you can’t mow right up to.
Tidy of paths and hard edges
Every visit. I blow or rake clippings off patios, paths, and doorways so you’re not left walking cut grass through the house.
OVERGROWN LAWN KNOCK-BACK
On the first tidy-up visit when needed. I take the height down safely and evenly, then set it up so the next cut is a normal mow.
CUTTINGS HANDLED AS AGREED
Every visit. You can choose removal, bagging into your green bin, or leaving fine clippings on the lawn when conditions suit it.
What it costs
These are typical starting points. Once I’ve seen photos and agreed what’s in and out, I’ll fix the price before I start. Prices are per visit.
Priced items
Getting started
If you want this booked in, sign here and send over a few photos of the front and back lawn.
1. Sign the proposal beside this section. 2. Message me photos and access notes, plus your preferred timing. 3. I’ll confirm the first visit slot and start the lawn tidy-up and mowing.
Signature
Fee summary
Can you quote from photos or do you need to see it?
Most of the time I can quote from photos if they show the full lawn, the edges, and any awkward corners. If I can’t see what I need, I’ll ask for two or three extra angles or I’ll do a quick look before I fix the price.
WHAT DO YOU COUNT AS THE LAWN AREA, AND WHAT’S EXTRA?
Lawn area is any grass I can mow as grass, plus the normal edging line around it. Heavy strimming in long weeds, digging out buried edges, levelling patches, scarifying, and aeration are priced separately so the base mowing price stays stable.
How long will it take and when can you do it?
A small tidy-up is usually done in one visit, with time depending on height, wetness, and how buried the edges are. Once I’ve seen photos I’ll give you a time window and the earliest slots I can offer, then I’ll stick to it.
DO YOU TAKE THE CUTTINGS AWAY OR LEAVE THEM? KEEP THE GREEN BIN? CAN'T USE IT?
You can have cuttings removed, put into your green bin, or left as mulch when the cut is light and the grass is dry enough. If you can’t use the bin or it’s already full, I’ll price removal up front so it doesn’t appear as an add-on later.
Payment
Each visit or billing period is invoiced at the start of that period. Nothing is paid up front beyond that. Every invoice is payable within 7 days of its date.
Quoting. Most of the time I can fix a price from photos that show the full lawn, the edges, and awkward corners. If I can’t see what I need, I’ll ask for extra angles or do a quick look first.
What counts as lawn. Lawn area is any grass I can mow as grass, plus the normal edging line around it. Heavy strimming in long weeds, digging out buried edges, levelling patches, scarifying, and aeration are priced separately.
Cuttings. Cuttings can be removed, put into your green bin, or left as mulch when the cut is light and the grass is dry enough. If the bin can’t be used, I’ll price removal up front.
Access
I’ll agree a day and time window with you before I come. You’ll need to make sure I can get to the lawn and that any gates are unlocked. I don’t write keys, alarm codes, or entry codes into this document.
Weather and ground. If the grass is waterlogged or it’s raining hard, I may need to move the visit to avoid tearing the lawn and leaving ruts. I’ll message you with the next available slot and keep the round consistent.
Changes and extras. If you want scarification, hollow-tine aeration, levelling, or clearance of rubbish or dog mess, I’ll price that separately before I do it. I won’t start extra work just because I’ve found it.
Ending regular visits. If you want to pause or stop regular mowing and edging rounds, tell me with the notice period I confirm on your invoice. I’ll do the same if I need to end the round on my side.
